Hooters China, The Inedible & The Ugly
April 10, 2011 § 4 Comments
Alright so… let’s put things straight before I even start: YES I’m French but I enjoy American food and entertainment culture, a lot! I’m not one bashing the bold, tacky, fat food concepts. Sometimes there’s just nothing better than four cheese burger add bacon,liter of cold beer, basketball game and the slutty waitress’s smile. Man’s simple nature, me is a man. I also know Hooters well, the original but some of its Asian versions too. I had been to Shanghai Hooters twice when it opened few years ago, it was alright. Off we go, Hongqiao Parkson’s Hooters ahead!
I’m usually not too interested in discussing women breasts sizes, belly fat, ass flatness on this blog. What I am interested in however is discussing success or failure of food/drinks brands and concepts.
Hooters is the privately held American restaurant chains. Hooters name is taken from an American slang term for female breasts, and its logo, an owl, is well known for its “hooting” calls. Now, let’s compare Hooters brand description from Wikipedia and the sad reality of Hooters China:
– Hooters is a restaurant with a waitstaff made up of attractive waitresses
– Sex Appeal of the waitress is a primary part of the company’s image
– Menu includes, and is famous for delicious tex-mex food (nachos, quesadillas, chicken wings…)
– Hooters China is a restaurant with a waitstaff made up of scary waitresses that clearly couldn’t made it to work at the nearest KTV. Sex Appeal of the waitress is a secondary part of Hooters China image after vulgarity. Hooters USA have a Hooters Employee Handbook, published in The Smoking Gun reads and that notes that: “Customers can go to many places for wings and beer, but it is our Hooters Girls who make our concept unique…” They definitely are unique at your Hooters China for they might make customers feel an extreme discomfort I personally only felt in some remote KTVs and at a club party few years ago, curiously hypnotized by some midgets in Michael Jackson red PVC outfits dancing on the bar top.
– Menu includes the saddest tex-mex food one can possibly imagine, in ridiculously small portions, highly priced and aggravated with a service charge (that will benefit to the above waitstaff). We entertained ourselves counting the number of tortillas in the big nachos plate: 21 and took a picture of the dish so you can play “Where’s Wally”, trying to find where are the guacamole and the minced beef hiding. The pizza felt like an old over-chewed tasteless chewing gum and clearly was the worst thick crust I’ve ever had, the vegetables cut looked like the poorest dish ever and had to cover carrot and celery sticks with an avalanche of the blandest fattest sauce to taste something.
We sadly moved closer to the TV set and watched NBA best dunks drudging to finish our 2/3 ice 1/3 alcohol margaritas.
So really, what’s my point? There’s absolutely nothing personal. But I’m raising the question of branding, marketing and international consistency of a global food brand. How can a brand allow such remoteness and failure from the very original marketing concept that founded its success? It is not the first time that an imported concept is being denatured in China and becomes its own parody. Other succeed in reproducing original recipes and sometimes even bring it to another level, adapting it to the specific targeted market.
Shanghai first Hooters opened in 2004 and to this day there are only two outlets for a city of over 10 millions inhabitant, clearly revealing a serious disfunction of the local operation and marketing. Does anyone care?!
In Shanghai you will find plenty of options for good american, tex-mex food: Malone’s, Big Bamboo, Blue Frog, Cantina Agave are just a few, and plenty of restaurants with much more attractive and enthusiastic staff.
Don’t go to Hooters until they hire me, instead go to:
255 Tongren Lu, near Nanjing Xi Lu
– Cantina Agave’s amazing nachos. Yes the shot is from a professional but quite close to what it is in reality.
– Inedible nachos at Hooters Shanghai (hopefully coming in very few portion so you don’t feel committed to eat too many of them) as they were served last night.
– What Hooters is in the US (and should be anywhere else) for the sake of branding.
– What Hooters is in China/Asia.
中国Hooters餐厅的服务员相貌丑陋，甚至都无法在附近的KTV找到工作。在这些粗俗之后，性感迷人的女服务员反倒成为了中国Hooters餐厅的次要部分。美国Hooters餐厅有一本Hooters员工手册，有在The Smoking Gun杂志上刊登过，其中写有：“顾客可在许多地方享用到鸡翅和啤酒，但我们的Hooters女孩们将这一切都变的特殊起来。”而的确，她们使中国Hooters餐厅变得特殊起来，但则是因为她们让顾客感到非常不舒服，就像我几年前在某些KTV和夜店派对上的感觉类似。很奇怪地沉迷于摇滚中，在吧台上有穿着像迈克尔杰克逊那样的红色PVC演出服的人跳舞。
在上海，你可以找到许多不错的美国和德州式墨西哥料理的餐厅，例如：Malone’s, Big Bamboo, Blue Frog, Cantina Agave等，并且许多餐厅都有着迷人和热情的员工。
－ Cantina Agave的粟米脆饼很棒。这张近照拍摄地很专业吧，这和实物是一样的。